As Raoul’s marks 50 years in Soho, proprietor reflects on wild times, savory fare

50 Years of Raoul’s: A Story of Survival and Success

In the heart of Manhattan’s Soho neighborhood, a French chef named Guy Raoul and his brother Serge, a TV journalist, took a bold step 50 years ago by opening a bistro. Little did they know that besides worrying about making rent, they would also have to deal with demands for protection money from the mafia, as recounted by Serge Raoul’s son, Karim Raoul.

Back in those days, Soho was a different world – deserted streets, vacant buildings, and an air of danger where people sometimes disappeared, Karim shared.

The mob enforcers would frequently visit Raoul’s bistro to demand payments from the brothers. When they refused to comply, the mobsters resorted to bombing the business, causing damage to the windows but not deterring diners from enjoying their meals inside.

Amidst the attacks, Serge came up with a clever plan – staging a fake TV news story to scare off the mobsters. Surprisingly, the tactic worked, and the extortion threats ceased.

As Raoul’s marks half a century in Soho, reminiscing about the challenges of the past, one thing remains constant – the bistro’s charm. Karim described Raoul’s as a place that has always flown under the radar, never aiming to be the trendiest spot in the city but staying true to its roots.

While upscale French restaurants thrived uptown in the 1970s, the Raoul brothers found their niche on Prince Street near Sullivan Street, a location that exuded a more vibrant energy.

Over the years, Raoul’s became a hub for artists, with famous names like Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and Jean-Michel Basquiat gracing its tables. The bistro’s reputation grew, attracting celebrities like Johnny Depp, Kate Moss, and Quentin Tarantino.

At a recent celebration hosted by Chloë Sevigny and Lauren Santo Domingo, stars like Jennifer Lawrence and Cooke Maroney gathered to honor the enduring legacy of Raoul’s.

Despite the changing landscape of the neighborhood, Raoul’s has remained a constant for five decades, preserving its unique atmosphere and culinary offerings.

From its iconic spiral staircase to the legendary steak au poivre, Raoul’s has stayed true to its roots while adapting its menu to evolving tastes. The bistro’s enduring appeal is credited to its dedicated staff and the creative freedom that has defined its identity.

“There has always been a certain freedom [at Raoul’s]. People were able to express themselves through their art — selling it — having drag shows at the bar, whatever,” Karim said. “That’s what made it different, and an entertainment place, not just a restaurant.”