‘The Testaments’ Costume Designer on Finding the Right Shade of Plum
Hulu’s “The Handmaid’s Tale” took a bold new direction in Season 5 by introducing the Plums, a group of young girls in Gilead who are being groomed to become future wives. Luke and June, the main characters, discover the existence of a premarital training school where their daughter Hannah, now known as Agnes, is a student under the watchful eye of Aunt Lydia.
Costume designer Leslie Kavanagh, known for her work on the show, was excited to explore a new visual story through the introduction of the Plums. She meticulously crafted the look for these young girls, drawing inspiration from a mix of red and teal hues to create the perfect shade of plum. Each girl in the Plum group had their own signature colored blouse, custom-dyed to complement their individual skin tones.
The Pearls, on the other hand, were described in the book as wearing gray, sparkly garments. Kavanagh initially experimented with a pearl-like fabric for their costumes but ultimately opted for warmer tones of white to balance the cool environment of “The Testaments.” The Pearls are meant to stand out and draw attention, symbolizing a sense of rebellion against the oppressive regime of Gilead.
Daisy, a character who appears to conform to Gilead’s customs but is secretly working as a spy for the resistance group Mayday, undergoes a visual transformation as her story unfolds. Kavanagh used vibrant colors and layers for Daisy’s character in Toronto, reflecting her journey from compliance to defiance.
Aunt Lydia, a powerful figure in Gilead, is portrayed in military-like wool garments that convey her authority and control. In a pivotal episode that delves into Aunt Lydia’s backstory, Kavanagh reveals the origins of the aunts’ outfits and the significance of Aunt Lydia’s choice to wear the uncomfortable fabric as a form of penance.
The girls of Gilead participate in a prom-like ball where the commanders seek out future wives. Kavanagh pays close attention to detail in crafting the girls’ dresses for the dance sequences, ensuring that each girl has a unique shade of green and adding caplets for a touch of elegance. The commanders’ attire is designed to exude a sense of sophistication and allure, emphasizing their presence among the young girls.
Overall, Kavanagh’s attention to detail and creative vision bring a new depth to the world of “The Handmaid’s Tale,” showcasing the power of costume design in storytelling and character development.
